World Dinner Club

World Dinner Club
World Dinner Club

Monday, December 6, 2010

First rate food in the Second City

Chicago is often unfairly derided as America's Second city. But there's no reason one can't have first rate food there.  I had an extraordinary meal at Naha in Chicago last week.  Dinner began with a coddled organic hen's egg with sweetbreads and some beans.  My veal sweetbreads were crispy and certainly a little sweet.  The dish was sauced with a rich beefy reduction that was just perfection.  
Our waiter graciously helped me with the wine list and we got a very drinkable, but really moderately priced Duero Valley red to wash it down.

Next came the masterpiece: a superb roast squab with  seared Duck foie gras and a noodle "cake" scented with raisins, Armenian rose petal marmalade, pink peppercorns (seriously?) and anise.  It was a crazy and fun mix of different flavors that managed to all co-exist in something short of harmony.

There was barely room for dessert, but I did manage some of the homemade eggnog ice cream and a glass of 20 year old Graham's tawny port. Just the right thing to warm me up before facing the cold weather outside.

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