Chicago is often unfairly derided as America's Second city. But there's no reason one can't have first rate food there. I had an extraordinary meal at Naha in Chicago last week. Dinner began with a coddled organic hen's egg with sweetbreads and some beans. My veal sweetbreads were crispy and certainly a little sweet. The dish was sauced with a rich beefy reduction that was just perfection.
Our waiter graciously helped me with the wine list and we got a very drinkable, but really moderately priced Duero Valley red to wash it down.
Next came the masterpiece: a superb roast squab with
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