Argentine Odyssey: Mendoza Wine Exploration II

The next day we arose with the ambitious plan to visit four wineries.  Achaval-Ferrer really let us see the process and our enthusiastic guide definitely took every opportunity to champion the superiority of Argentine wine over lesser Chilean vino.

This rather small winery only produces 200,000 bottle of mainly malbec. However, they punch above their weight! If you find their wines, they are not to be passed over.  Achaval-Ferrer has three fincas or estates where the grapes are grown. Single estate wines are produced that reflect the truest characteristics of the terroir. We drank a new wine of 2011 vintage that was just bottled a few days before and a superb blend of malbec and cabernet sauvignon that impressed all of us in the tasting room.

The "first crush" of grapes in concrete tanks

French oak barrels

Unripened olives from the olive trees adjacent to the vineyard

From this boutique winery, we went to Chandon, the major French sparkling wine brand. This industrial facility makes a couple million of bottles of wine a year using local chardonnay, semillon, and pinot noir grapes to produce several wines.  Some use the traditional Methode Champagnoise and other are made using the larger, more industrial process.

2 million of cases of bubbly to bottle






























Tasting semillon grapes from the test vines

Sampling "Baron B," a mid-range, i sparkling wine from Chandon

Around noon, we found ourselves at Piatelli.  Surrounding a beautiful Tuscan style villa, we were shown around the malbec vines on the grounds and given a true education on the wine making process from a new perspective. We learned about the economics of wine making and the areas of influence that a wine maker can have. This is largely comprised of a handful of approaches like stainless steel versus ceramic/concrete tanks, French oak vs. exposure to American oak, Portuguese cork versus synthetic corks. The choices made are very important to the character of the wine yes but also to the bottom line.  Similarly a host of other issues are agonized over, such as the types of foil to use, the cost of certain labels and other things that we take of granted, but which quickly add up an effect the profitability of a small producer in the wine trade. This all has seemingly twisted consequences: it is possible to pay more per pound for the best Portuguese cork than to produce high quality malbec grape.  This is a reminder that the grapes remain a gift of terroir more than anything else.

Lunch of was served on the expansive deck between the villa and the small irrigation lake that had been created in the dry Mendoza climate to feed the ground underneath with water though special pipes. 

We had two menus to choose from: a modern take on traditional dishes and argentine tapas.  I opted for the former.

Wild rabbit bruschetta














We began with wild rabbit bruschetta that was salty and earthy. Next we had empanadas of beef, black sausage, and cheese and onion; all with creole sauce. In my empanadas, the cheese was molten hot, the black sausage unctuous yet complex, the rib eye was spicy and succulent with risotto potatoes that were cubed small enough that they became slightly creamy on the outside and firm in the middle. Dessert was an array of chocolate, cheese, sweet potato and quince ice cream with crunchy homemade “oreos.” It was truly a celebration of what local food can be. The tapas was diverse, but included seafood ceviche, prawn in chimichurri, and quinoa salad. Washing this down with the best torrontes from Piatelli’s Salta vineyards and malbec from their Mendoza vineyards for the first two courses, we had the pleasant surprise of malbec rosé to drink with our desserts.

Trio of Empanadas

Argentine tapas of fruit, salad, and fried calamari











More contemporary tapas of ceviche, empanadas, quinoa and shrimp

Ribeye crusted with olive, risotto potatoes, vegetables and smoked creole sauce (a salsa of onion, sweet peppers, tomatoes and salt).

Chorizo skewers and provolone

Calamari in purple corn flour batter

For dessert, modern classics done with style: chocolate, cheese, sweet potato and quince ice cream with crunchy homemade “oreos.

Grilled fruit and popcorn ice cream

Delicious, full-bodied malbec

We made our way after much thoughtful and erudite conversation about Argentine and American politics over lunch to Vistalba.  Set in an even more beautiful villa, surrounded by the vines of Mendoza and Andes Mountains in the distance, Carlos Pulenta has built an impressive winery here.The winery includes a small inn and a French restaurant where you can dine in the surroundings of some of Mendoza's best kept vines.

The Visatalba blended wines have won many awards and the Tomero single varietal wines are extremely expressive and reflective of the terroir.

Vistalba blend is named of this corner of Mendoza, which is one of the most sought after for growing malbec.

The winery produces terrific reds, some sparking wine and even olive oil (center)

Back in town, we went to Aristes Villaneauva street a lively bar and outdoor areas for some beer, asado (BBQ) and helado (ice cream)